Software To Clean Up Pc : Hardwood Floor Cleaning Product : How To Clean High Gutters.
Software To Clean Up Pc
- make a big profit; often in a short period of time; "The investor really cleaned up when the stock market went up"
- The fourth position in a team's batting order, typically reserved for a power hitter likely to clear the bases by enabling any runners to score
- An act of removing or putting an end to disorder, immorality, or crime
- tidy: put (things or places) in order; "Tidy up your room!"
- An act of making a place clean or tidy
- dispose of; "settle the bills"
- (computer science) written programs or procedures or rules and associated documentation pertaining to the operation of a computer system and that are stored in read/write memory; "the market for software is expected to expand"
- Software is Grace Slick's 1984 album. This album was recorded after she had re-joined Jefferson Starship. After working on this album, Peter Wolf would go on to contribute to Jefferson Starship's 1984 album, Nuclear Furniture. A music video was made for the single "All the Machines".
- The programs and other operating information used by a computer
- Computer software, or just software, is the collection of computer programs and related data that provide the instructions telling a computer what to do. The term was coined to contrast to the old term hardware (meaning physical devices).
- personal computer: a small digital computer based on a microprocessor and designed to be used by one person at a time
- P.C. is a split 7" vinyl single by the Huntington Beach, California punk rock band Guttermouth and the band BHR, released in 1993 by Signal Sound System Records. It is currently out of print. P.C. is both the title of Guttermouth's side of the record and their track.
- A constable is a person holding a particular office, most commonly in law enforcement. The office of constable can vary significantly in different jurisdictions.
Oldtown Alexandria Waterfront V.A.
Canon 400D with Sigma 18-200DC OS & UV filter shot jpeg ISO400 1/90s F8.0 160mm effective > Gimp rotate, crop down to 6MP out of 10MP (and really it should go to 16:9), moderate contrast-boost & usm]
...so coming full-circle, almost. This is from my first DSLR & superzoom. I shot some brackets off 295s at 5:30 one morning coming out of work late, long before I took this rig to Istanbul and missed 500 shots because the 400D has a piece-of-crap AF system...supposedly "fixed" in the 450D? The 500D? The 550D? Who knows, who cares. It wouldn't have really mattered anyway because the camera stripped-away all the fine-detail above ISO100, trying to clean the shot. No sense in taking wide-angle landscape shots over water if the camera cleans all the fine-detail out.
That lens was only sharp at F8 or higher and the camera would only accurately AF on white/black transitions. I must have caught one in the center there because this one is actually focused well.
But there's no fine-detail in it.
Decent colors, though, given enough contrast. Though it would look better if shot with a D300, but possibly have even less fine-detail. Certainly if shot with a Nikon 18-200VR2.
Luckily I have some ISO200 shots to post later. I had some taken with a EF70-200 EF-IS at sunset but I lost them.
Gotta remember to keep a good grip on your shots :)
Anyway 4 quick lessons here:
1: don't let the camera or the raw-converter push shots like these. It's twilight, not the middle of a sunny day. The shot is supposed to be a little dark.
2: When thou shootest in jpeg, thou must accept what the camera does in terms of noise-reduction. When thou shootest in raw, especially with a good camera, the raw files will include full-resolution camera jpegs.
3: If your camera only AF's well when the subject is well-lit or you close-crop, it will not AF well when it is not well-lit and you have not close-cropped. Most of the time the subject is not well-lit and often you will not want a close crop...especially when taking shots handheld in low light. You want to keep the lens short so you can shoot nice and slow at low ISO and still get stable results. 1/90s on a 160mm effective shot is about 1/2 of 1/FL. Ideally you want to get down around 1/4 1/FL, with some noticeable effect on edge-sharpness from reliance on the IS that is detectable at 100%, that is easily dealt-with with a good USM. When you get really really good at low-speed handheld shooting you'll find that there is a real practical limit regardless of FL, like around 1/13s. For me 1/4s handheld is really pushing it but I can get decent shots at 1/13s out to 400mm effective or so. It's your basic "noise vs shake vs exposure vs crop vs fine-detail". Generally for something I'm going to look at on my PC I will plan to crop by about a factor of 2 and push by at least one stop. Also then if you have a really good lens that is still adequately sharp across the frame *below* F8 (unlike this Sigma) then you're golden. I wouldn't rely on software lens-correction to make up for a dull lens. It can only do so much. But on a shot like this where you have fine-detail marching across the frame you need it to be flat-sharp across the frame. Cropping by two means it only needs to be flat-sharp across the center-half of the frame. Cropping will increase the effective focal-length, which destabilizes the image, but reduce the need to stop-down the lens, which allows for lower exposure-times for a given exposure-level. You really do not want to zoom in tight and take the lens way out in FL where it is probably not very sharp even at F8 and then have to take a handheld shot at an extremely-high FL, unless there's not a lot of fine-detail in the resulting crop or you don't need it to be flat-sharp. Or maybe there's a ton of light or a handy rest and you can stop it down to F8 or even F11 without a problem.
But that cannot be done for a subject that's a half-mile out to sea if the lens is only 70mm effective or so, unless you're going to crop the shot down by 80% or so. Though this would have been a fairly-easy shot with an 18-105VR on a Nikon subframe. It is not entirely necessary to have 300mm of FL range on a subframe, but it comes in *real* handy when you want to crop in tight on something either small or far away while maintaining resolution and you have enough light to do it successfully. And when I can get 18-250mm with IS in a lens that's the same size but even lighter than the 18-105VR, and the lens is almost as sharp as the 18-105VR on top of that and costs maybe 50% more? I'm going to take it. Same reason that you would take a 10MP camera that's good over ISO100-1600 over a 15MP camera that's only good from ISO100-800. The extra FL range is worth more than the extra sharpness...in this case it's almost 3x the FL range in exchange for a reduction in sharpness in the lower-third of the FL range. Sharpness that your camera is goi
Scareware (AntivirusXP 2009)
Easily one of the worst false AV traps I've seen so far. The "Warning" was actually flashing different colors and numerous pop-up warnings were appearing. Also, the publisher isn't an expert on the english language. The warning states:
"Many viruses were found on your computer such as : Trojan horse, PassCapture, ect. Your personal information can fall into in the 'third hands.' Please check up the computer with a special software. Thank."
Immediately after reading this, I burst into laughter.
A majority of the time, the malicious software will ask you to send money in order to fix "the problems" that it found. In one case, I met with a man who did send money, but was able to contact his bank and hold the transfer.
Everything was easily removed using Malware Bytes, which is currently the best software I've used to clean up infected PC's.
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